Jim's Loire

Born Digital Awards 2011 – time running out – only a few hours left!

2012-01-31T08:53:00.001Z

Horniman Museum clock: London SE23

Last ticks of the clock of 2011 Born Digital Award entries

Strike action in the UK has extended the deadline for submitting tax returns on line by two days until midnight on 2nd February but there is no such extension for those wanting to enter the 2011 edition of the Born Digital Awards. The deadline is midnight tonight (31st January) GMT.

The organisers are particularly keen to have entries in languages other than English. Click here for the entry forms and details.

Epeigné-les-Bois: Fête de la Saint Vincent 2012

2012-01-30T11:19:00.001Z

Crowded Salle des Fêtes for the 2012 Saint-Vincent (photos: Mark Robertson)

Report on yesterday's Saint-Vincent celebrations in Epeigné from Mark Robertson, vigneron and correspondent sur-place for Jim's Loire:

'A very successful Saint Vincent in Epeigné yesterday, organised by the Comité des Fêtes. François Garanne was the St Vincent this year, and he and Guy Henault ( a retired vigneron and doyen of the CDF) planted a vine each along the cemetery wall.

The Gidelle presented their traditional dance following which there was a wine tasting (Cave Francueil, J C Legrand and Cave Garanne). The Salle des Fêtes was packed for the lunch prepared by M. Emery of Luzille, we were 92 at table.

A menu and photo of the wines is attached. As you can see the Cave Cooperative have redesigned their label which looks a bit more modern. The 2009 Côt was actually quite good.

During a brief speech Francois Garanne mentioned that there are still approx 30ha of vines planted at Epeigné so all is not lost. A distinguished guest at the lunch was Alain Kerbriand-Postic former mayor of St Martin le Beau and Conseiller General – seen bottom left in conversation with Michel Mergot.

The volunteers of the municipal library arranged an exhibition ‘La vigne et le vin’ which was provided by the Conseil General. This comprised some informative posters and a selection of interesting books on all aspects of wine.

Apparently the dancing (and reading) continued until late in the evening.'

Cheers,

Mark

Menu and line-up of bottles

Duo of crus communaux + Finkus Bripp interviews 'This blogger'

2012-01-30T08:47:00.195Z

Finkus Bripp: "Can anyone tell me why I've got a camera growing out of

my ear and a shade attached to my cap? I thought I did the off-beat stuff!"

Plenty of entertaining this weekend that gave me the opportunity to try out some more of the Muscadet crus communaux and to gauge people's reactions to them.

First on Saturday evening we had friends over for dinner. The willingness of our recently opened fishmongers and butchers – Billings – to take orders prompted me to opt for a first course of mulet aux olives et au vin blanc (grey mullet with olives and white wine) served cold. This simple recipe comes from Elizabeth David's French Provincial Cooking and used to be one of my regular dishes in the days when Richards, a fine fishmonger in Brewer Street in the heart of London's Soho still existed. Sadly this shop along with others like Hamburger (also on Brewer Street specialising in a variety of smoked fish) and Gomez Ortega (a wonderful Spanish grocers on nearby Old Compton Street) have long gone. Grey mullet came hard to find. The dish is very easy to make but served cold and decorated with thin slices of lime and lemon can look pretty impressive. As an experiment we offered the option of some Polish horseradish sauce bought from Topolski in Druid Street. It worked well.

2006 Monnières Saint-Fiacre, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine

With the mullet we drank the 2006 Monnières Saint-Fiacre, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine from Véronique Gunther-Chereau at Château du Coing. The Monnières quite opulent and rich fruit matched the meaty flesh of the mullet and with enough acidity to freshen the palate. Our friends were surprised to discover a Muscadet in this style and of such quality.

Finkus Bripp

Then yesterday lunchtime Finkus Bripp (wine on the rocks) made his way down from Hendon to South London to interview 'this blogger'. Finkus is normally based in Munich but is over in the UK for a few days. He continues to be a busy boy having recently launched his own 'pointless' wine shop and making a wine in Portugal's Douro Valley.

Miolo Brut, Franciacorta, Villa Crespia

In preparation for the rigours of the 'on the rocks' interview we had a glass of the full textured Miolo Brut, Franciacorta from Villa Crespia with its toasty and honeyed notes balanced by good, ripe acidity. Sadly this was the last of our half bottles that we brought back from our October visit to Franciacorta for the European Wine Bloggers Conference. These halves have proved to be a very used and practical size providing an evening apéro for two or even a glass each for three people.

Then over a light lunch – baked omelette with bacon, potato and cheese and salad – we tried another Muscadet from Véronique Gunther-Chereau – the 2005 Château de la Gravelle from Gorges. This proved to be more mineral than the 2006, which was somewhat of a surprise for the vintage but may instead be a reflection of the terroir of Gorges. The Gravelle, however, did have enough buttery weight to partner the omelette.

Finkus prepares to interview 'this blogger'

Lunch over it was onto a wide-ranging interview with Finkus (shot using a Canon EOS 7 with a 16-35 L lens) – to be released at some date in the future.

The trademark Bripp cap – 'the Bripp effect'

New book: The Finest Wines of Burgundy

2012-01-29T20:14:00.000Z

The Finest Wines of Burgundy by Bill Nanson with photos by Jon Wyand £20, 320 pages

I recently received a copy of this new book on Burgundy – the lastest in the World of Fine Wines in cooperation with Aurum Press. The text is written by Bill Nanson, author of the highly respected on-line Burgundy Report, while the photos are by Jon Wyand. Jon is a very fine photographer and Burgundy is his particular passion. I haven't yet had time to read all of Bill's text but have had time to look through Jon's photos to see how an expert goes about their work and get some tips on how to improve my portrait photos, while trying to avoid copying!

Millésime Bio 2012: The first day (cont)

2012-01-29T10:57:00.002Z

2010 Clos de Guichaux, Saumur, Domaine Guiberteau (Romain Guiberteau)

At Millésime Bio I tasted a number of fine dry Loire Chenins – some already featured on the earlier post.

2010 Clos de Guichaux, Saumur, Domaine Guiberteau

Romain Guiberteau has just under 10 hectares of vines. The Clos de Guichaux is in Bizay near to Brézé and was planted with Chenin in 2003/4 with the first vintage in 2008. So far Romain has planted 1.5ha of this three hectare Clos. The area around Brézé is particularly known and suited for its whites from Chenin Blanc. The 2010 Clos de Guichaux is rich, powerful with good concentration, long apricot flavour and considerable potential to age.

2009 Le Sec de Juchepie 'Le Clos', Anjou, Eddy & Mileine Oosterlinck-Bracke

Eddy & Mileine Oosterlinck-Bracke at Domaine Juchepie are best known for their Coteaux du Layons but their dry whites should not be overlooked. Again this is a ripe and full Chenin with fine mineral character and length.

2009 Jarret de Montchenin, Anjou, Château de Passavant

Château de Passavant is in the upper Layon Valley. The rich 2009 Jarret is barrel fermented with attractive notes of honey and is reasonably priced at 14€ from the château. The Passavant 'basic' 2010 Chenin is crisp, lemony, easy drinking and is also fairly priced at 6.25€.

Château de Passavant

London SE23: some winter sunrises

2012-01-28T17:09:00.001Z

January rise

One of the few advantages of the long winter nights is that you can take photos of the sunrise while still getting up at a reasonable time. Here are a few January 2012 sunrises over south London.

Looking towards Downham, Bexley, Dartford etc. + vapour trails (above and below)

Hopeful Chenin: a view from South Africa

2012-01-28T08:28:00.001Z

Jim in South Africa with Lucy Warner – 2001

A view from Tim James on South African Chenin Blanc – highlighting their good fortune in having a significant proportion of old vines.

Hopeful Chenin

Cinderella and workhorse were favourite clichés to describe the role of chenin blanc in the local wine industry of olden days. Well, it is a good few years since the horse has come to the ball and it is great to have her.

Although the quality of chenin blancs has undoubtedly improved (as well as being sometimes pushed too far with excessive ripeness, sugar and oak), quantity has fallen drastically. Chenin blanc used to occupy a third of the Cape vineyard, but is now at little more than 18%.

But no other variety has as large a proportion of old vines - many 40 years old at least - giving low crops, the intensity and finesse of which wine-lovers should happily pay a premium for and, incidentally, help to save such vineyards from ruthless, axe-wielding accountants.'

Submitted by Tim James on 24 January, 2012 - 07:31

Read the full article here.

Link to the Chenin Blanc Association based in South Africa.

Horniman Gardens changes

2012-01-27T22:58:00.000Z

Renovated bandstand@Hormiman Gardens

Three photos of renovation work now going in the Horniman Gardens (London SE23):

The bandstand with the view of the City beyond

New animal quarters under construction

Millésime Bio 2012: a few more portraits

2012-01-27T18:05:00.008Z

Jean Noël Millon, Saumur Champigny, La Source du Ruault

François Chidaine: Montlouis, Touraine and Vouvray

An Italian exhibitor relaxing: everyone has the same sized, unfancy tables

Time to text...

See also some photos by Michel Smith (Les 5 du Vin) here.

The Born Digital Wine Awards: 5 Days Left to Submit!!!

2012-01-27T07:45:00.003Z

The Born Digital Wine Awards submission process is coming into the final stretch, with less than 5 days left to submit your work! Entries close on 31st January at midnight GMT (Gabriella Mean Time) and any work first published on the net is elligible.

http://www.borndigitalwineawards.com

Skim through your best 2011 content, in any language, and submit up to 3 pieces across any of the following categories:

Best Wine Themed Video

Best Editorial Wine Writing

Best Investigative Wine Story

Best Wine Tourism Feature

Best Winery Self Produced Content

Best Wine Photo Essay

The submission process is free and winners will be awarded 1,000 euros!!

SUBMIT HERE: http://www.borndigitalwineawards.com

***

The Circle of Wine Writers is one of the partners of the Born Digital Awards. The Circle has just under 300 members worldwide and welcomes membership applications from regular bloggers. For further information, please contact the Circle's administrator, Andrea Warren, at administrator@winewriters.org.

Sponsors:

Other partners:

Southampton–Tours: twice weekly return flights from 16th May

2012-01-27T00:02:00.025Z

Tours Airport

Starting from Wednesday 16th May Flybe will be running twice weekly flights from Southampton to Tours. They will be on Wednesday and Saturday and will run until 8th September. One way tickets will cost 45€. Flybe will run 68 flights this year and anticipate carrying 3,744 passengers of which 70% are expected to be British and 30% French. Flights will take 45 minutes. The other flight option to Tours from South East England is London Stansted operated by Ryanair.

There will also be weekly flights to Corsica (Ajaccio) from Tours, stopping at Châteauroux on the way. These flights will be operated by Air Corsica and will start at the beginning of May and run until September.

More details from La Nouvelle République here.

Millésime Bio 2012: some portraits

2012-01-26T22:44:00.000Z

Jonathan Pabiot and Nina Schomakers (Domaine Jonathan Pabiot, Pouilly-Fumé + Pouilly-sur-Loire)

It was difficult to make many posts during Millésime Bio 12. It was necessary to decide whether to seize the opportunity and taste as much as possible or take time out to post. I chose the former as it is always possible to post after the event and it gives you time to reflect on what you have tasted. In the event I tasted wines from nearly all the around 60 Loire producers present at the show and will be returning to wines that impressed me. It was also the opportunity to take a few pics of Loire producers – some shown here:

Jonathan Pabiot

Nina Schomakers

Loïc Mahé (Savennières)

Vincent Caillé, Domaine Faye d'Homme, Monnières (Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine)

Damien Delecheneau, La Grange Tiphaine, ACs Montlouis and Touraine

Vincent Roussely, Domaine du Clos Roussely (AC Touraine)

Pierre Gauthier, Bourgueil, Domaine du Bel-Air

Loire moustaches: Pierre Gauthier (Bourgueil –above) and Joseph Landron (Muscadet – below) shared the same table

Angry and frustrated François Chidaine resigns from InterLoire's executive committee

2012-01-26T14:38:00.001Z

François Chidaine

François Chidaine, a leading figure in Loire viticulture with vineyards in Montlouis, Touraine and Vouvray, has resigned from InterLoire’s executive citing fundamental disagreements. Interloire promote the wines of the Pays Nantais, Anjou-Saumur and Touraine.

“Interloire’s budget is 8.5 million euros and the return is not very good – the money is misused,” said Chidaine. ‘Take the 900,000 budget to promote Touraine wine – what do they do with it? They promote Touraine primeur every November but the fashion for nouveau is over. There are other events such as a press tasting in Paris but these events have very little impact.”

“The promotion of Touraine wines has no clear objectives and no focus. Overall there is too much emphasis on the generic image of the Loire and not enough on the individual appellations.”

In 2011 the Bourgueil appellation left Interloire and the Fiefs Vendéens, a small appellation, will be leaving at the end of next year.

Chidaine is also very critical that Interloire has not insisted on changes to the format of the annual Salon des Vins de Loire. “The Salon needs to evolve otherwise it will die,” said Chidaine. “Although the Salon brand name is owned by the Angers Parc des Expositions, Interloire puts up most of the finance, so it should demand that things change.”

Like many Loire vignerons, Chidaine is angry and finds it incomprehensible that this year there is a week between the four Salons-off – la Dive Bouteille, Renaissance tasting, the first Loire bio salon and the Puzelat and friends event – and the Salon des Vins de Loire. The off-events take place this weekend running through to Monday 30th January. Whereas the Salon des Vins de Loire is from 6th to 8th February.

Many of the Loire producers I spoke to at Millésime Bio hope that next year all of these events will be held over the same period, so that people travelling from a distance do not have to choose between the Salons-Off and the Salon des Vins de Loire. This disharmony only hurts the Loire.

“Interloire is supposed to bring coherence! The organization has become a big bureaucratic machine and doesn’t deliver value for money,” says Chidaine.

Jean-Martin Dutour, president of InterLoire, responded: “I can only regret that François has resigned in the middle of his term of office at a time when InterLoire is making important changes. In response to the demand for change we are refocusing on the appellations in terms of promotion and in the way Interloire works. This takes a long time but there will be results before the summer.

“Interloire promotes numerous events – details can be found on the local press and on our website.”

Jean-Martin Dutour

Jean-Martin Dutour’s response in full

François CHIDAINE a effectivement participé de plus prés aux travaux de l’interprofession en 2011 comme membre du Comité Exécutif. Nous saluons cette disponibilité et j’en profite pour remercier les élus qui donnent bénévolement de leur temp aux organisations collectives comme INTERLOIRE. Rien ne pourrait avancer sans leur engagement.

Je ne peux que regretter que François quitte le Conseil Exécutif en cours de mandat, au tournant d’une mutation importante d’INTERLOIRE.

A la demande des élus représentants la filière, nous avons entamé un travail profond de réorientation de l’interprofession vers les Appellations, réorientation de la communication mais aussi de notre fonctionnement. Ce travail est important. Il ne peut pas se faire sans la participation active des représentants de ces appellations. Il mobilise en particulier toute l’énergie des personnels d’INTERLOIRE. Ce travail est long mais aboutira avant l’été.

Pour autant INTERLOIRE continue à mettre en œuvre de très nombreuses actions. Il faudrait des dizaines de pages pour les exposer ici. Ces actions sont présentées largement lors des multiples réunions de la filières, par la presse spécialisée locale, sur le site internet d’Interloire ...

Plus spécifiquement pour l’appellation MONTLOUIS, je ne leur ferai pas l’affront de répondre à leurs interrogations par voie de presse ! Nous avons beaucoup discuté avec François et, à son invitation, je viendrai à la prochaine Assemblée Générale de l’Appellation pour évoquer avec eux le détail de tous ces points.'

30th January 2012: Chris Kissack, the Wine Doctor, runs a critical eye here over the Salon des Vins de Loire.

Pierre Clavel: the listening vigneron – truly natural! Bouche à l'oreille...!

2012-01-25T22:14:00.002Z

Pierre Clavel demonstrating @Millésime Bio 12 how essential it is for a winemaker to listen closely to what his wine is telling him

It is obvious that any producer intent on making truly natural or authentic wine must listen closely to what their wine tells them as Pierre Clavel of Domaine Clavel in Languedoc shows here today on the last day of Millesimé Bio 2012.

For this a standard ISO glass is perfectly shaped to fit most people's ears – certainly far better suited than a large Riedel glass that won't trap the delicate frequencies that wine, particularly natural wines, use to communicate when they want the winemaker to intervene or not.

Close up of Pierre listening with due attention to his wine

1855 (1855.com): Three more complaints

2012-01-25T08:16:00.003Z

Château Lafite amongst the wines not delivered

Recent comments about 1855

Two from Hervé Lalau's Chroniques Vineuses:

(http://hlalau.skynetblogs.be/archive/2010/12/14/www-1855-com.html)

Un nouveau commentaire vient d'être posté sur votre blog à la suite de la note www.1855.com :

"Je suis écoeuré de voir avec quel mépris 1855 traite ses clients. Il est impossible de les contacter par téléphone (commerciaux en ligne ou non disponibles) quant aux emails que je leur adresse, ils demeurent sans réponse. Je suis toujours en attente de la livraison de mes : - Primeurs 2005 (30 bouteilles - Malartic Lagraviere - Sociando Mallet - Clos du Marquis - Duhart Milon) - Primeurs 2006 (30bouteilles - Lagrange - La Tour Carnet - La Lagune) - Primeurs 2008 (24 bouteilles - Angélus - Léoville Poyferré) Après une mise en demeure en octobre 2011,un message de 1855 m'annonçait une "livraison probable" pour fin 2011 des primeurs 2005 et 2006. Malheureusement jusqu'à présent ce ne sont que des mots..."

Ce commentaire a été posté par POCHET.

Un nouveau message vient de vous être envoyer à partir du blog Chroniques Vineuses :

Nom : Uwe Riesel

Email : uwe.riesel@web.de

Message :

"Bonjour M. Halau! Je vous ecri de´l ´Allemagne ou j´ai acheter beaucoup de primeur de Bordeaux chez 1855. Mais on ne me fourni pas! Que des mails d´excuse. Comme j´ai compri, 1855 n´est pas fourni par les Grands Cru en Bordeaux mais en meme temps on a vendu ces primeurs. Et l´etat ne peut pas aider?? J´ai ecri déjà souvent avec M. Brocheton de DGCCRF qui me promi de s´en occuper mais il n´a pas du succès. Peut etre vous avez des conseils pour moi?? Je vous remercie en avance!! Uwe Riesel"

Also message from another frustrated client of 1855

Dear Jim,

I read an article in Decanter Online Magazine, posted in Dec. 2010 about wine distributer "1855" having serious problems to deliver their wines. They mentioned your email address regarding any information about this
topic.

There is an new article from 2011 about the same topic:
http://www.yoopress.com/en/winenews/viniculture/winetrade/4745..com_cant_keep_up_with_Carruades_de_Lafite-orders.html
http://www.yoopress.com/en/winenews/viniculture/winetrade/7387.Online_wine-trade_dotcom_in_bad_distress.html

Well, it's 2012 now and I also have loads of trouble to get my 2008 subscription. I only ordered three bottles of Chateau Lafite with them, (The rest I ordered with my reliable wine sellers..) but after plenty of phone calls and emails (most of them without any response) I doubt that I will ever see those three bottles. I tried to put some pressure on them, telling them that — as a photographer-journalist I will post this non-professional behaviour all over the web, but so far they didn't react.

I received an email end of 2011, where they told me, that they are looking for to deliver all 2008 wines till the end of the year 2011. (See email below.)

Do you have any idea, suggestions what would be the best for me to do? As the price for the 2008 Lafite was rising extremely since the end of the subscription order (175 Euros), I doubt that they still have this wine, and probably can not buy it back for a reasonable price...

Email from 1855:
Cher Monsieur,

Nous vous écrivons concernant votre commande de Primeurs 2008.

Nous avons pris beaucoup de retard dans la livraison des Primeurs 2008. La campagne censée débuter en Juin à débuté au courant du mois de Septembre, entraînant des délais dans l'arrivée d'un certain nombre de références.

Vos vins sont actuellement chez nos fournisseurs. Nous nous engageons à une livraison complète avant la fin de l'année 2011, conformément à ce qui est indiqué dans nos conditions générales de vente. Nous reviendrons vers vous lorsque vos vins seront prêts à partir.

Nous restons à votre disposition.

Cordialement,

_________________________________

Yan Wagner

Service Client

1855
Le plus grand choix de vins non livrées sur Internet
http://www.1855.com

'Management' and leading shareholder of 1855

Emeric Sauty de Chalon and Fabien Hyon are the senior 'management' team of 1855 (1855.com, 1855.con). Thierry Maincent was an administrateur and one of the directeur général délégués until he resigned his posts for personal reasons on 30th September 2010. Businessman Jean-Pierre Meyers, who is on the boards of L'Oréal and Nestlé, is a long-term shareholder of 1855. Françoise Bettencourt-Meyers, the daughter of L’Oréal heiress Liliane Bettencourt, is also an investor in 1855.

1855 is a probationary member of La Fevad:
From 1855's press release of 31st January 2011 announcing that they had become a member of La Fevad

'La Fevad accorde depuis toujours la plus grande importance à la promotion de règles fondées sur des valeurs de transparence et de respect du consommateur. Ces règles garantissent l`éthique de la profession et permettent de renforcer la confiance des consommateurs, dans l`intérêt de l`ensemble de la profession.'

'Toute entreprise membre de la Fevad s`engage à respecter les principes généraux et les règles prévus par les codes et chartes de la Fevad, tant dans l`esprit que dans la lettre.

"Le fait pour 1855 d`être devenu membre à part entière de la Fevad et signataire de ses codes et chartes est une nouvelle illustration de notre engagement à bâtir une qualité de service de référence » selon Fabien Hyon, Directeur général de 1855."

Millésime Bio 2012: The first day

2012-01-24T19:52:00.000Z

Entrance to Millésime Bio 2012 under a clear blue sky

With around 60 Loire producers at this edition of Millésime Bio – incidentally this is the 20th – my first priority was to visit and taste with all the Loire producers present, especially as there are a number here whose wines I have never tasted.

One particularity of this fair is that everyone has the same sized table, which means that much less space is needed as there are no fancy stands so there is less walking involved. Even so with nearly 600 exhibitors the fair took up two large halls – 12 and 10.

I started in Hall 12 yesterday and here are some of the wines that impressed:

White

2006 Clos du Papillon, Savennières, Domaine du Closel

There is lovely balance and complexity in this 2006 Clos du Papillon demonstrating that Savennières often needs time to develop and show its best. This still has a good number of years ahead of it and may still get better.

2008 La Fontaine des Bois, Anjou, Domaine Pierre Chauvin

2008 was a cool vintage saved as is so often the case by fine weather in September and into October. Due to the cool temperatures the grapes had a very long hang time and this is a fine vintage for very precise and pure dry whites. Domaine Pierre Chauvin is an estate of 14 hectares with two thirds planted with Chenin Blanc. La Fontaine has weight, purity and good length. It is a pity that Anjou Blanc doesn't have a better reputation as there are some excellent dry whites being produced under this appellation.

2009 Authentique, Anjou, Domaine Philippe Delesvaux

2008 Feuille d'Or, Anjou, Domaine Philippe Delesvaux

More text and pics to add.

Épeigné-les-Bois: Préserver les patrimoines

2012-01-24T07:25:00.001Z

L'Eglise@Epeigné-les-Bois

From La Nouvelle République: 23/01/2012 05:27

Une nouvelle association, Les amis des patrimoines d'Épeigné-les-Bois, se veut « indépendante, laïque, ouverte, vivante et conviviale ». Elle a tenu sa première réunion à la salle des fêtes en présence d'une soixantaine de personnes.

L'idée de départ est de générer des fonds pour la réfection de l'église afin d'obtenir des subventions de la Fondation du patrimoine (10 % via la région Centre). Pour Dominique Hisbergue, il s'agit aussi de recenser, préserver et faire connaître tous les patrimoines d'Épeigné : hydraulique (gués, puits, ponts, moulins, lac, fontaine), architectural et agricole (église, maisons anciennes, éoliennes, loges de vigne, halle aux grains), outils - objets, naturel (arbres, chemins) et, enfin, humain (coutumes, contes et légendes, festivités anciennes, mémoire).

En marge de son bureau, l'association aimerait constituer un conseil des sages pour la mémoire du village et créer des animations autour de la source, des vieux métiers, mettre en place des visites commentées, un circuit du patrimoine, des expositions, une bourse aux semis et collecter des souvenirs.

Dominique Hisbergue prévoit déjà, à la mi-avril, une bourse aux semis, plants et autres greffes avec un repas traditionnel tourangeau. Fin août, une projection en plein air de vieux films en relation avec Centre Image est prévue.

Le prochain rendez-vous est fixé au 26 janvier, à 20 h, afin de constituer un bureau, de mettre en place un recueil d'idées et de prévoir l'organisation de la bourse aux semis. Montant de la cotisation : 2 euros.

Millésime Bio 2012: visit to Natoli & Cie

2012-01-23T08:23:00.000Z

Jean Natoli of Natoli & Cie

Yesterday kicked off with a tasting of some 70 organic wines at the laboratory of Jean Natoli, on the outskirts of Montpellier. Photos for the moment details to be added once I get back from Day 1 of Millésime Bio.

Some journalists on the trip:

Howard Hewitt

Rasmus Holmgârd

Wolfram Römmelt

Michael Hornickel

Some wines that stood out:

Scene@the back of the lab

Millésime Bio 2012: visit to Château de Cazeneuve (Pic Saint-Loup)

2012-01-22T18:16:00.003Z

Name plaque@ Château de Cazeneuve

André Leenhardt: owner of Château de Cazeneuve

After a morning spent tasting at the Natoli & Coe (details to be posted later) we headed off for lunch and a visit to Château de Cazeneuve in Pic Saint-Loup. André Leenhardt and his wife bought the property some 20 years ago. In the 19th century the property had produced wine that was used to make vermouth but then there had been a switch to the production of table grapes. When the Leenhardts bought Cazeneuve the cellars hadn't been used for 20 years.

Today they have some 40 hectares, which includes nine hectares which their son has rented recently and goes into their early drinking cuvée – Carline. They started to convert their vineyards to organic production in 2007 and received their certification in 2010. Cazeneuve has an impressive range of wines including a white made from mainly from Roussanne and Grenache Blanc with the addition of some Vermentino and Viognier.

2005 Le Roc des Mates, Pic Saint-Loup, Château de Cazeneuve

Amongst the reds I was very impressed by the spicy and structured 2005 Le Roc des Mates with 65% Syrah completed by Grenache and some Mourvèdre, which has had time to soften and evolve in bottle. The rich and powerful 100% Mourvèdre – 2007 Le sang du Calvaire – was also impressive but needed time to soften. Later a magnum of the 2005 was opened and the additional two years showed how good this cuvée can be with some bottle age.

2007 Le sang du Calvaire, Pic Saint-Loup, Château de Cazeneuve

Typical view of vines dominated by the limestone plateau above.

Trees (including olive) in the bright January sunshine

Pruning done now waiting for spring (above and below)

Good that our organisers recognise the high quality of the journalists on this trip...

Millésime Bio 2012: dinner@plaisirs des mets

2012-01-22T06:38:00.002Z

Plaisirs des mets

Bar of the restaurant

Montpellier

Millésime Bio, the annual organic wine starts on Monday (23rd) and runs through to Wednesday but the press trip associated with the fair started last night in the Plaisirs des mets, a small restaurant in the old part of Montpellier. The press group is mainly from Germany, Denmark, Scandinavia and Iceland with a couple of late additions – Howard Hewitt from the US and myself. Apparently we managed to squeeze on as there weren't enough Scandinavians who wanted to leave the chilly north for a few days of respite sun in Montpellier.

At dinner we were joined by producers: Marie Teisserenc (Famille Fabre), Jean Paul Cabanis (Costières-de-Nîmes) and Virgile Joly.

Jean Paul Cabanis

Domaine Cabanis: Pays du Gard 2010 Clairette

We started with a simple, refreshing vin de pays 2010 Clairette from Jean Paul Cabanis, which was just right to kick off the evening. Then two further whites in ascending order of richness: the well balanced 2009 Saturne (100% Grenache Blanc) from Domaine Virgile Joly and the rich and full but not cloying 2009 Viognier from Famille Fabre. This Viognier came from vines selected in Condrieu. This was a rare treat as production is very small – just three barriques.

2009 Saturne, Coteaux du Languedoc, Domaine Virgile Joly

2009 Viognier, famille fabre

A succession of attractive south reds followed. These were based mainly around Carignan, Grenache and Syrah, although Jean Paul Cabanis' Costières de Nîmes had a majority of Mourvèdre which ripens well in these vineyards which are close to the sea. Unfortunately the later reds were served with and after the chocolate dessert which made tasting a challenge! Despite this the still quite youthful 2002 Rouge from Domaine Virgile Joly showed very well and should clearly last for another few years.

A rather grainy photo of Virgile Joly – should have taken the other Canon!

2002 Rouge, Domaine Virgile

Swirling glass: not what was intended but I like the effect – vive la modération!

Muscadet Crus Communaux: a trio tried

2012-01-21T18:14:00.002Z

2006 Clisson, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine, Stéphane and Vincent Perraud

Over the past couple of nights we have been trying some more of the Muscadet crus communaux. This time a trio – two from Clisson and one from Le Pallet. Once again we tasted them on their own and then tried them with food. This trio provided further evidence that these are wines best served with food, which tends to accentuate their complexity and bring out their minerality and acidity. Tasted alone the minerality tends to be hidden by the richness.

2005 Clisson, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine, Christian Pineau

We tried the two Clissons served with plainly grilled fillets of sea bass and much preferred the 2006 which showed greater complexity and balance both by itself and with the fish. The 2006 Clisson from Stéphane and Vincent Perraud had good weight, attractive texture and is long and well balanced. In contrast the 2005 from Christian Pineau, although rich with a hint of honey and was rather ungainly. This may be a reflection of the vintage for although 2005 is a fine vintage for reds, the whites often lack the vivacity and finesse found in cooler vintages.

2003 Le Saphir, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine, Frères Futeul

I had anticipated that coming from the heatwave vintage the 2003 Saphir might be too rich for its own good. This, however, was not at all the case as its ripe fruit was balanced by a freshness in the finish. We tried this with a guinea fowl cooked in a Norman style – pot-roasted with apples and cream and finished with a good slug of Calvados and some more cream. Certainly a challenge for most Muscadets! However, Le Saphir worked well with the dish for although the wine's weight was a little subdued by the apple and cream sauce this was made up by the increased minerality and acidity that cut the Norman richness.

We also tried the remains of the 2006 Clisson with the guinea fowl and again the wine stood up well.

Some of the bottles being used for the crus communaux are quite heavy. Although I understand that the Muscadet producers want to make a statement about the quality of these wines, heavy bottles now get a bad press over increasing the carbon footprint. It would be a pity if the quality of these crus communaux get overlooked through criticism of the weight of the bottles used.

News from Les vignes Herbel

2012-01-21T07:55:00.004Z

Nadège Herbel@Renaissance 2010, Greniers St Jean

Bonjour,

Comme chaque année, nous avons le plaisir de vous envoyer quelques nouvelles!
L’an dernier nous vous parlions d’un projet de déménagement. Eh bien, ça y est enfin! Nous voici aux « Bergères » à St Lambert du Lattay. Un chai à 6 km de nos vignes (ça change de 45!) perché sur les bords de l’hyrôme, dans un cadre magnifique. Il fut construit en 1998 par les 2 grands vignerons que sont Isabelle et Jo Pithon, puis racheté par le domaine FL.

Aujourd’hui, nous prenons le flambeau et avons, enfin, un outil de travail fonctionnel qui va nous permettre de progresser encore dans l’élaboration de nos vins.

Nous serons présents au salon 'renaissance des appellations' aux greniers St jean à Angers, les 28 et 29 janvier prochains et espérons vous revoir à cette occasion.

Nous espérons également, que, de votre coté, tout va pour le mieux et vous souhaitons nos meilleurs vœux pour 2012 !

À bientôt!

Nadège et Laurent

Nadège et Laurent Herbel

Les vignes Herbel
Viticulture biologique et biodynamique
Les Bergères
49 750 St lambert du lattay
Tel: 02 41 80 29 02
www.lesvignesherbel.com
lesvignesherbel@gmail.com

Is Liliane Bettencourt a customer of 1855?

2012-01-20T11:11:00.002Z

1855's Paris offices

Liliane Bettencourt, the L'Oréal heiress and the mother-in-law of Jean-Pierre Meyers a leading shareholder in 1855, was the unfortunate victim of a break-in this week. Two thieves broke into her villa on the north Brittany coast at l'Arcouest, Ploubazlanec and stole 40 bottles of wine. Read the article from Le Télégramme.com here.

It is possible that 40 bottles was the maximum load the miscreants could carry but you also have to wonder whether Madame Bettencourt's cellar wasn't nearly empty because of ordering her wine through 1855 – delays in delivery due to logistical problems and promises from the customer relations people, Mathieu and Carole, that the outstanding wine would arrive by the end of this month.......!!

1855 (1855.com): Report on hearing at Tribunal de Grande Instance de Paris

2012-01-20T10:08:00.005Z

1855's offices at 10 Rue des Moulins, Paris

A report from GH on a hearing before the Tribunal de Grande Instance de Paris on 17th January 2012. This is just one example of well over 300 court cases involving 1855.

'As promised here is an update on my case. Yesterday (17^th January 2012) I was at the Tribunal de Grande Instance de Paris for the hearing. As you might remember I ordered 230+ bottles of 2008 primeurs with amongst others Lafite.

After all comments on the web and more specifically LPV (La Passion du Vin), I decided not to pay the VAT and transport charges until proof of my wines being available in their depot.

1855 tried to stall the procedure and asked for a postponement given they didn't had enough time to prepare. We did assign them on December 7th, so actually there was plenty of time. This was refused by the judge so the hearing went through (a first victory given most of the times 1855 obtains a postponement).

Then 1855's lawyer explained that it was impossible for them to deliver given I hadn't paid the VAT and transport charges. They also brought in quite a few other arguments and elements of jurisprudence.

My lawyer broke every single argument of 1855 (no delivery because no payment of VAT and transport costs, wines in stock over multiple locations thus very difficult to deliver within reasonable time, ...) and at a certain point the judge was actually making fun of them! The whole room was laughing although everybody realised that this was a rather sad story too often heard.

We asked for delivery against certified check from my bank for payment of VAT and transport costs and with a penalty (500EUR per day). In subsidiary case (if they are unable to give me the bottle's) to pay back of the actual value of the bottles - around 30.000EUR.

We also asked for a bank guarantee of 30.000 euro till the moment of delivery - as to protect ourselves if they went belly up and also asked for them to pay my legal expenses.

After the hearing we had a debriefing with my lawyer and 1855s and both believed we will get a court ruling ordering them to deliver the wines within 8 days after the verdict is published (which should happen on January 31st).

Also they believed I would have some form of bank guarantee for an amount between 7.500 (amount invested) and 30.000EUR (probably around 15.000) as well as repayment of legal charges.

My lawyer really did a great job and managed to corner 1855 lawyer completely. For those interested I used DDG as a lawyer. (Pierre Deprez and Gwendoline Cattier - cattier@ddg.fr)

We met another lawyer at the hearing and knowing the number of cases in front of the tribunals (84 at the TGI, over 200 at the TI and many more at the juge de proximite) we thought about starting une action au penal, a civil suit for criminal charges against the founders of 1855. Interested parties should join because we would hit them 1855 directly in their pockets and they could possibly face prison charges and a 'cassier judiciaire'. This would really push them towards settlement.'

Over 300 court cases involving 1855!

This is a quite staggering number of court cases before the French courts involving 1855. No wonder the company needs frequent injections of fresh capital just to meet their lawyers' bills. GH's tip on his lawyers – DDG – may well be worth following up.

Bon Vivant: Nicolas de Rouyn: some speculation:

1855, liquidation avant fermeture définitive ?

Sans être exagérément moqueur, force est de constater quelque chose qui ressemble à un mouvement de panique chez 1855.com. Leur opération promotionnelle annuelle tourne à la grande braderie. -70 %, c’est beaucoup.

Read the rest here.

1855's share price

Since the beginning of 2012 the price has oscillated between 0.07€ and 0.06€ (opening price for 2012) with roughly equal volumes being traded at these two prices, so the article in La Revue du Vin de France doesn't seem to have affected the share price for the moment, although there are no signs so far of the price going above 0.07. Last year's high was 0.28€ with a low of 0.05€.

The Sunday Telegraph, the UK's best selling more heavyweight Sunday newspaper, has been preparing an article on 1855 and its problems, which may well appear this weekend. It has a circulation of over 600,000 copies.

'Management' and leading shareholder of 1855

1855 is a probationary member of La Fevad.

Independent Wine Growers: 18.1.12 – photos and a few comments

2012-01-20T00:02:00.013Z

Christine Lemonnier and Frédéric Bonneau: Manoir de la Vignière, Touraine

Christine Lemonnier and Frédéric Bonneau bought the Domaine des Sablons in the centre of Pouillé in February 2010. According to Frédéric the previous owner who had bought the estate in 2001 from Jacques Delaunay had allowed the 15 hectare estate to run down and had ceased bottling wine and instead sold juice to the négoce. Frédéric, who used to be in the hotel trade in the Paris region, and Christine decided that they wanted to change their lifestyles and so bought the Domaine des Sablons, which they have now renamed Manoir de la Vignière.

Frédéric and Christine have the support of Jacques Delaunay and his wife Marianne. Jacques has explained how he used to make his skin contact Touraine Sauvignon Blanc – "he gave me the recipe, which he wouldn't give to my predecessor," explained Frédéric, "so we have called this the Cuvée des Sablons." Certainly the 2010 Cuvée des Sablons is richer and fuller than the straight 2010 Moulin de la Vignière. I also liked their juicy, easy drinking 2010 Touraine Gamay.
Curiously we had our first contact with Jacques and Marianne Delaunay some 25 years ago in 1987. This was at the short-lived Restaurant Alexandre in Epeigné-les-Bois. Jacques supplied Alexandre with wine – we once drank a magnum of 1985 at the restaurant – and we met Jacques and Marianne one evening when the service was particularly slow. Unfortunately Alexandre had a habit of failing to pay his bills. The restaurant came to an end when Alexandre opened fire on his boyfriend or it may have been the other way round.

A suivre!

Alexandre Déramé (Déramé et fils – Muscadet M&S, Gros Plant + V de P)

Well-made Muscadet Sèvre et Maine from Déramé et Fils including vat samples from 2011 and a quite rich and full example from 2006. Déramé was also showing a soft, easy drinking vin de pays Merlot (La Morandière), which I think is the best red I have tasted from the Pays Nantais. This is not saying much for most of the reds from the Pays Nantais are best avoided. Déramé's Merlot, however, is agreeably, soft and easy drinking – in itself a pleasant surprise!

Céline Louvet (Domaine des Sanzay, Saumur and Saumur-Champigny)

The Domaine des Sanzay is in Varrains with vines in Montsoreau as well as Varrains. While their straight Saumur-Champigny is attractively easy drinking, I was particularly impressed by their 2010 Vieilles Saumur Blanc (100% Chenin) made from 50 year old vines and vinified in 400-litre barrels giving weight of fruit and length. It should age well.

Véronique Gunther-Chereau and her husband with their crus communaux (above and below)

I have tasted Véronique Gunther-Chereau's wines (Château du Coing) on a number of occasions and have always been impressed by their quality. She was showing a range of 2010 Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine with the Grand Fief de la Cormerais and Domaine des Yolais. Véronique also was showing two crus communaux – one from Gorges that has already been recognised and one from Saint-Fiacre that will presumably soon be officially admitted to the CC Club. I was kindly given a sample of each to try, so will cover these in more detail shortly – 2006 Monnières Saint-Fiacre and 2005 Château de la Gravelle Gorges.

Kathleen Van den Berghe: Château de la Minière (Bourgueil)

I finally got to meet Kathleen Van den Berghe, who bought Château de la Minière in Ingrandes-de-Touraine (AC Bourgueil) in autumn 2010, at Lords Cricket Ground as we had failed to find a time when we both happened to be in Bourgueil at the same time. Since taking over Van den Berghe has appointed a new winemaker and it was interesting to compare the vat sample of the 2011 vintage Château de Minière with the 2009 version of the same wine, where the fruit was more hidden and the tannins more to the fore. However, again, it will be important to taste the finished version of 2011.

A suivre!

Simon Grainger: Loire Wine Tours
A touch of George Clooney or his elder brother?

Simon and Karin Grainger run Loire Wine Tours and Simon was helping Richard Desouche on the stand of Château de Chaintres (Saumur-Champigny and Saumur) where the soft and juicy 2010 Domaine de Chaintres (Saumur-Champigny) impressed as did the more complex, rich, weighty and age worthy 2009 Clos Oratoriens Saumur Blanc.

Finally – typical UK wine trade: sober shirt with a slightly more flamboyant tie

The tasting was organised by the Vignerons Indépendants de France

Photos from the Sydneys' Loire benchmark tasting: 18.01.2012

2012-01-19T14:28:00.009Z

Jean-Philippe Blot: Domaine de la Taille aux Loups and Domaine de la Butte (Montlouis, Vouvray and Bourgueil)

Charles and Philippa's 'benchmark' Loire tasting held yesterday in the vaults of the Royal Society of Arts – just off London's Strand largely featured the wines, although there were a few producers over as well. It was noticeable that the younger generation were to the fore with Jean-Philippe Blot, Emmanuelle Mellot, René Papin and Anne-Charlotte Genet all representing their respective domaines.

René Papin (Château Pierre-Bise, Anjou) with 2010 Clos de Beaupréau

Emmanuelle Mellot (Domaine Alphonse Mellot, Sancerre and Coteaux Charitois)

Anne-Charlotte Genet (Domaine Charles Joguet, Chinon) serving Chris Kissack (The Wine Doctor)

Also present were Marielle Henrion, François Lieubeau and Olivier Mouraud.

Marielle Henrion (Château de l'Aulée, Touraine and Crémant de Loire)

François Lieubeau (Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine) who joined the family business in 2010

Olivier Mouraud (Bougrier)

This tasting underlined that 2011 is a vintage where careful selection will be essential, most obviously in Muscadet on yesterday's evidence but also for Sauvignon Blanc both in Touraine and in the Central Loire vineyards. In contrast the overall quality of the 2011 Chenin Blancs shown were higher and more consistent probably showing how Chenin benefitted from being a late ripener in 2011 so catching the fine weather at the middle and end of September. A note of caution, however: it is still very early to judge as few 2011 wines are in bottle, so the finished article may well show differently.

Château de l'Aulée's fine Touraine Brut 'Intense' was my bargain of the tasting. A blend of 80% Chenin and 20% Chardonnay this Touraine sparkler spends 18 months sur latte and retails at the property for a mere 4.95 €.

Chris Hardy, buyer for Majestic Wines

When the fraud squad raided Verget: compare and contrast with 1855

2012-01-19T09:45:00.002Z

Maine et Jean-Marie Guffens-Heynen

The film of the persecution of Jean-Marie Guffens by the French Douane and the Répression des Fraudes (1855 exclus) now has English sub-titles. Click here See earlier report on Jim's Loire about this extraordinary affair here.

TCA can affect producers too!

2012-01-18T19:27:00.002Z

TCA may affect producers too – a Saumur-Champigny producer with two corks and Corinne Laurent (Saint-Pourçain)

It's been a busy day of tasting in London with Charles and Philippa Sydney's Loire tasting followed by the Independent Wine Growers with a number of producers from the Loire present.

More photos to follow.

Close up!

Flavescence dorée found in Panzoult

2012-01-18T08:30:00.000Z

Bucolic scene in the centre of the village of Panzoult

Worrying news item from La Vigne yesterday – the first incidence of flavescence dorée, a hopping-insect spread vine disease. La Vigne reports that last October the first vine, a Chenin Blanc, in the Loire to be affected by the disease was found in Panzoult (AC Chinon). In France all vines found to be affected by the disease have to be grubbed up.

The appearance of flavescence dorée in the Loire, which to date has been a problem further south in France, is likely to be a big concern as the Loire already has considerable problems with vine diseases – eutypiose and esca.

'La Vigne, la revue du monde viticole et du vin

Indre-et-Loire

Découverte d'un cas de flavescence dorée

Publié le mardi 17 janvier 2012 - 16h28

C’est une première en Indre-et-Loire : un pied de vigne contaminé par la flavescence dorée a été identifié sur la commune de Panzoult, en AOC Chinon, lors d’une prospection opérée en octobre dernier par la FGDON 37.

Les analyses viennent de confirmer qu’il s’agit bien de la flavescence dorée. Le cep atteint est un chenin de moins de cinq ans et il est a priori le seul contaminé sur sa parcelle.

« Jusqu’ici la cicadelle vectrice Scaphoïdeus titanus avait déjà été observée dans le département mais la flavescence dorée n’avait jamais été détectée, indique Catherine Vicet, technicienne à la FGDON 37 et qui a découvert le pied contaminé. Nous allons pratiquer des prospections fines rang par rang afin de voir si d’autres pieds sont atteints. Nous ne connaissons pas encore l’épicentre du foyer ni son étendue. Nous travaillons avec la Fédération des associations viticoles 37 à mobiliser les vignerons du Chinonais et de tout le département pour prospecter les vignes. Des groupements de défense contres les organismes nuisibles vont probablement être créés pour mettre en place un maillage serré de prospection. »

Des formations destinées aux vignerons vont être organisées et les techniciens des enseignes de distribution de phytos vont être sensibilisés. Un arrêté préfectoral sera pris prochainement et précisera le périmètre de lutte obligatoire et les modalités de lutte. À partir de mars, les éclosions de Scaphoïdeus titanus et l’évolution des populations seront suivies de très près.'

1855 (1855.com): difficult day on the Paris Bourse

2012-01-17T22:30:00.001Z

1855: screen grab of part of today's trading www.boursorama.com

Shares in 1855 fell today from 0.07€ to 0.06€ – down 14.29%. Whether this is an effect of Jérôme Baudouin's exposé in this February's edition of La Revue du Vin de France is not known, although shares in 1855 have previously touched 0.06 with a high of 0.07, which is where they closed yesterday. For much of the day shares traded at 0.06, although on several occasions a single share was traded at 0.07€ as the table bottom right above shows.

1855: share movements over the past five years

It is likely that 1855 will be very concerned that the share price does not fall further.

1855 (1855.com): RVF article produces email – will it produce wine?

2012-01-17T09:21:00.002Z

La Revue du Vin de France: the start of Jérôme Baudouin's devastating exposé on 1855

Box from the article covering Michael Haynes and mention of Jeremy Andain

Following Jérôme Baudouin's article Jeremy Andain, who is owed over 37,000€ worth of en primeurs by 1855, received the following email yesterday (see below). Carole Rougier, Chargée de Relation Client Senior, promises Andain that he will receive an email next week confirming the dispatch of all of his en primeurs, which date back to the 2003 vintage. 2003 should have been delivered during 2006, so this is six years late. 2004 should have arrived in 2007, 2005 in 2008, 2006 in 2009 and 2007 in 2010. Let's see if 1855 keep their promise and that Andain receives his long awaited wines.

Interesting to see that Rougier makes two errors in the spelling of Lafite-Rothschild – clearly a wine that 1855 don't see very often! Alternatively ... hope it isn't a Chinese bottling from the back streets of Shanghai!

'Monsieur Andain,

Nous avons été alerté par la RVF concernant les retards de livraison de vos différentes commandes de Bordeaux Primeurs.

Nous tenons de nouveau à vous présenter toutes nos excuses pour ces délais retardés mais sachez que nous faisons le maximum pour réduire votre attente.

Nous vous indiquons également que les références suivantes sont en cours de préparation pour l'expédition:

Primeurs 2003
- 3 bouteilles de Château Lafitte Rothshild (sic)*

Primeurs 2004
- 12 bouteilles de Moulin Haut Laroque
- 6 bouteilles de Clos Margalaine
- 12 bouteilles de Château Faugères
- 12 bouteilles de Fourcas Dupré
- 6 magnums de Moulin Haut Laroque
- 3 magnums de Grand Puy Lacoste
- 24 bouteilles de Château Monbousquet
- 6 bouteilles de Château Belle Vue
- 6 bouteilles de Château Cantemerle
- 6 bouteilles de Château d'Issan

Primeurs 2005
- 12 bouteilles de Château Brown
- 36 bouteilles de Château Andron Blanquet

Primeurs 2006
- 12 bouteilles de Fleur Cardinale
- 12 bouteilles de Château Lucia
- 3 magnums de Château Carbonnieux
- 6 bouteilles de Château Carbonnieux
- 12 bouteilles de Cambon La Pelouse

Primeurs 2007
- 36 bouteilles de Château Belle Vue
- 6 bouteilles de Moulin Saint Georges
- 6 magnums de Léoville Las Cases

Un mail vous sera donc envoyé en début de semaine prochaine vous confirmant l'expédition de toutes ces références.

Nous restons à votre disposition pour tout complément d'information.

Bien à vous,

Carole Rougier
Chargée de Relation Client Senior

'Management' and leading shareholder of 1855

Luxembourg fine wine dealer scammed by fake football agent

2012-01-16T19:05:00.003Z

2004 and 2005 Latour among the wines stolen

Just before Christmas Gildas Royer, who runs In Vino Gildas, a fine wine shop in the centre of the city of Luxembourg, found that he had been scammed out of a parcel of wine worth 26,100€. Some of this stolen wine has subsequently been offered to the UK fine wine trade.

In November Royer was approached by someone claiming to be the agent for Manchester City’s midfielder Yaya Touré. The agent told Royer that he was organizing a party for two famous footballers. He needed some very specific top Bordeaux. Royer agreed to sell the wines, which included a bottle of 1976 Pétrus and two vintages – 2006 and 2007 – of Ausone.

Vines near the entrance to Château Ausone's cellars, Saint-Emilion
2006 and 2007 Ausone stolen

The agent provided bank details. Royer asked for payment before sending the wines and in due course received proofs of payment from Barclays Bank. These turned out to be forgeries.

As instructed, Royer then sent the 30 bottles to an address in Hither Green, South London by courier. The Hither Green address is a hairdresser with accommodation above. Unfortunately Royer never received payment and the football agent has disappeared.

In December a wine merchant in Buckinghamshire bought six bottles of 2007 Ausone from a private individual who brought up the six bottles on a train from London. “He was a hip black guy – between 20 and 30,” said a spokesman for the company. “He said he had a number of footballer friends. The Ausone belonged to a footballer who didn’t want the wine but wanted the money instead.”

“The case still had a 'In Vino Gildas’ label on it,” explained the spokesman. “So as we are always on the look out for new stock we contacted Royer, who told us what had happened. We were only offered the 2007 Ausone. If there had been more we would have been suspicious.”

The wines sent to Hither Green:

10 x 2006 Ausone

6 x 2007 Ausone

3 x 2005 Latour

2 x 2008 Lafite-Rothschild

7 x 2004 Latour

1 x 2005 Margaux

1 x 1976 Pétrus

Further details:

- 1 flat OWC with 6 bt CHÂTEAU AUSONE 2006 (new condition)
- 4 bt of CHÂTEAU AUSONE 2006 (new condition)
- 1 flat OWC with 6 bt CHÂTEAU AUSONE 2007 (new condition)
- 1 12 bt OWC of CHÂTEAU LATOUR 2004 with inside:
- 7 bt CHÂTEAU LATOUR 2004 (new condition)

- 3 bt CHÂTEAU LATOUR 2005 (new condition)
- 1 bt CHÂTEAU MARGAUX 2005 (new condition)
- 1 PETRUS 1976 (the label falls apart)
- 2 individual wooden-case of CHÂTEAU LAFITE-ROTHSCHILD 2008

Luxembourg fine wine dealer scammed by fake football agent

2012-01-16T14:27:00.003Z

Stolen wine includes 2008 Lafite

Anyone offered (or who has already been offered) the following wines by a private individual should be aware that they may have been part of a parcel stolen from a fine wine merchant in Luxembourg at the beginning of December 2011 by someone pretending to be the agent of a prominent Premier League footballer.

The wines are:

10 x 2006 Ausone

6 x 2007 Ausone

3 x 2005 Latour

2 x 2008 LafiteRothschild

7 x 2004 Latour

1 x 2005 Margaux

1 x 1976 Petrus

Details:

- 3 bt CHÂTEAU LATOUR 2005 (new condition)
- 1 bt CHÂTEAU MARGAUX 2005 (new condition)
- 1 PETRUS 1976 (the label falls apart)
- 2 individual wooden-case of CHÂTEAU LAFITE-ROTHSCHILD 2008

Probable that the wines will be (or have been offered) separately. Known that the 2007 Ausone was offered and sold to a reputable UK broker, who has subsequently learned of their provenance.

More details to follow.

2012 Wine Blog Trophy – Salon des Vins de Loire: last votes!

2012-01-16T08:00:00.002Z

Café de la Promenade, Bourgueil – two blog posts in the competition

Voting closes tomorrow (Tuesday 17th January) at 18h (l’heure française). You can cast your vote here.

Although the top five look to be decided, there is certainly still time for positions to change with just eleven votes between the top two candidates. The top 5 blogs receive points: 5 for 1st, 4 for 2nd etc. These are in addition to the points awarded by the jury.

Latest standings for the 13 blog posts entered (09.00h Monday 16th January)

David Cobbold – Les 5 du Vin: La Promenade, Bourgueil: 344 votes

Sophie Senty – Vinsinthecity: L’harmonie des vins – Lyon: 333 votes

Alain Fourgeot – Fou-rgeot-de-vin.com: Le Tocsin, Bourges: 148 votes

Eva Robineau – Oenos: Le Sffleur de Ballons, Paris: 101 votes

Antonin Iommi-Amunategui: Vindicateur: Le Verre Volé, Paris: 91 votes

Lincoln Siliakus – Terre de Vins http://www.terredevins.com: The Loire: what pretext could be better: 38 votes

Marc Massot – Vins, Boissons et gastronomie de Loire: Resto-Bar à vins du Musée de la Sommellerie, Sainte Gemmes sur Loire: 18 votes

Michel Tolmer – Glouguele, Le Café de la Promenade, Bourgueil: 17 votes

Christian Bétourné – Littinéraires Viniques: Auberge du Val de Vienne, Sazilly: 11 votes

Benjamin Poussardin – Les aventures de Binbin Foudevin: Wee-An, Lyon: 11 votes

Anne-Victoire Monrozier – Miss Vicky Wine – La Wine Touch: Septime, Paris: 8 votes

Patrick Macault: Bourgogne Wineblog: domaine-des-deux-moulins: 6 votes

Ambroise Chambertin – Anthocyanes: Bar Lieu dit Vin, Hendaye: 3 votes

Sancerre: some photos from 23.9.11 mainly Bué

2012-01-15T23:10:00.002Z

Evening light looking down on Bué

Above Bué

Le Clos de la Poussie: erosion problems still clear to far right of Clos

Le Clos de la Poussie: part where the vines have been grubbed up and vegetation encouraged to grow. Steeper than it appears due to wide camera angle

Clos de la Poussie: drainage culvert and Bué in distance

Looking southwards from the Clos de la Poussie

Towards Le Clos de la Poussie

Sea of vines: looking towards valley to Chavignol and Verdigny beyond

Vineyard patterns near Amigny

La Dive Bouteille (29th-30th January) and 8 years of blogging from San Francisco

2012-01-15T15:52:00.003Z

Château de Brézé hosting La Dive Bouteille

Details here of how to get to and from Brézé by public transport.

Brézé's moat

Elsewhere in the Loire finally a few cold nights forecast for Epeigné-les-Bois with night-time temperatures dropping below freezing until it gets milder again on Wednesday.

Reflections on 8 Years of Wine Blogging by Alder Yarrow

'Eight years ago, I decided that instead of giving my friends the same advice over and over again about my favorite wines and restaurants, I would start a blog -- both so that I would have someplace to send them, and so that I could learn about what a blog was and how it worked.

And that, as they say, was the first day of the rest of my life. I've been writing about wine almost every day since then, pausing only to go on my honeymoon, hang out with my new baby girl, and go fishing in Alaska this past August.

It's been quite a ride.'

Read the rest here:

Les Grands Vins de Muscadet: les crus communaux

2012-01-15T12:02:00.004Z

2007 Jubilation Le Pallet, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, Les Vignerons du Pallet

The new crus communaux are a further indication that Muscadet can be a grand vin and not just a glass of something crisp and refreshing for shellfish.

Back in July last year the INAO recognised the first three Muscadet crus communaux: Le Pallet, Clisson et Gorges. Other communes are expected to follow. These cru wines are made under stricter rules than those for 'straight' Muscadet – yields limited to 45/hl/ha compared to 55hl/ha for ACs Muscadet: Sèvre et Maine, Côtes de Grandlieu and Coteaux de la Loire. The grapes have to be riper – minimum of 11% and the time sur lie is longer – 17 months for Le Pallet and 24 months for Clisson and Gorges. Due to the vagaries of the sur lie regulations these crus communaux cannot put sur lie on their labels as the current rules dictate that a sur lie must be bottled by 30th November of the year following the vintage. So 2010 sur lie had to be bottled by 30th November 2011. This seems remarkably foolish – hopefully the regulations will be amended to allow these new crus communaux to claim sur lie on their labels.

On Thursday I received four of these crus communaux to try – one from Le Pallet (the t is silent in Pallet but sounded in nearby Vallet), one from Gorges and two from Clisson.

2005 Gorges, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, Damien Rineau

On Friday we tried the 2007 Jubilation (Le Pallet) and the 2005 Gorges from Daniel Rineau tasting them and then trying them with grilled prawns followed by a grilled sea bass from Billings, our local fishmonger/butcher. Both are good wines and very different from a traditional Muscadet being richer with more body and much less lemony – more reminiscent of a coolish climate Chardonnay or perhaps an Alsace. The bottle is different too – Burgundian in style (see below).

The lightly golden 2007 Le Pallet is slightly richer than the 2005, which is a bit of a surprise given the differences between the two vintages, and the more complex. Whereas the 2005 Gorges is a little less rich in colour but has a more mineral character. Both worked well with the prawns and sea bass. Interestingly with food the two wines showed more acidity than when tasted on their own. Ready to enjoy now they can certainly be kept.

Burgundian style bottle: 2005 Gorges, Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, Damien Rineau

Back label of the 2007 Jubilation

Apart from sensibly recommending that Jubilation should be served between 10˚-12˚, so not ferociously chilled which will kill the complexity, this back label is rather a wasted opportunity as Les Vignerons du Pallet don't take the opportunity to say anything about this wine and how it is different from a traditional Muscadet.

The production of these crus communaux is small and likely to remain that way. Most retail for between 10€ to 15€ and offer a very good deal for the quality.

Some London scenes

2012-01-14T23:17:00.053Z

Mist beyond Horniman's Museum and Park with Canary Wharf: 14.11.2005

Top of the Shard taken from Druid Street: 14.1.2012 am

Close up of the top of the Shard: 14.1.2012 am – Druid Street

The two photos of the Shard were taken using a pocket sized Canon SX210, which has a remarkable zoom. The Shard was probably three quarters of a mile away from where I took these two pics without a tripod.

The Shard also from Druid Street, London SE1

Some taken on 12.1.2012 around the Tower of London after the Corney & Barrow tasting:

Tower Bridge

Offices on south bank of Thames – a plane and various birds not dirt on the lens

City Hall and other offices from The Tower

Dragons enjoying a light snack@The Tower

The Shard as light falls (above and below)

1855 (1855.com): devastating article from RVF

2012-01-14T14:32:00.003Z

The start of Jérôme Baudouin's devastating file on 1855

The February 2012 edition of La Revue du Vin de France carries a detailed six page article by Jérôme Baudouin on 1855 (1855.com) charting its turbulent history and failure over many years to either deliver all the wines its clients order or to be a financial viable business.

Baudouin's is a shocking portrait of a delinquent company with a voracious appetite for capital. Over the years much of this capital has been supplied by Jean-Pierre Meyers – Baudouin estimates that Meyers has 'invested' between 8-10 million euros in this quasi-Ponzi scheme. Another significant investor is Meyers' wife, Françoise Bettencourt-Meyers, daughter of Liliane Bettencourt the L'Oréal heiress. Bettencourt-Meyers is cited as putting in one million euros in August 2008 into Aphrodite, 1855's holding company.

I can't see RVF's February edition being on the Bettencourt-Meyers breakfast table or in their drawing room. Baudouin says that the Bettencourt-Meyers (B-Ms) are upset by 1855's chronic failure to deliver their clients' wine. I assume that the B-Ms are as upset for 1855's angry and frustrated clients as they are for the damage the association with 1855 does to their reputations. Baudouin suggests that Meyers, who declined the opportunity to comment, is now seeking to distance himself from 1855. If this is the case this may explain why on 22nd November 2011 Emeric de Sauty de Chalon launched the 1855 Junk Club (le Club Actionnaires de 1855). Shares in 1855 are currently trading at 0.07€ a share. Over the past five years they hit a high of 4.40 a share and a low of 0.02. If Meyers has decided that enough is enough, the 1855 Junk Club is unlikely to provide enough capital to keep 1855.com afloat.

Fabien Hyon, CEO of the 1855 group, does admit that mistakes have been made and says things will be better in the future. Unfortunately this is a standard refrain from both Hyon and de Chalon – promises but no improvement. If anything the number of complaints appear to be rising and not just for undelivered Bordeaux en primeur but for current wines that ought to be in stock.

Last October Hyon promised Decanter that the 2008s en primeur would be delivered before the end of 2011:

'In an email to Decanter, Hyon said he was confident that all orders would be fulfilled.

‘As far as the 2008 Bordeaux primeurs are concerned, they are delivered from June through December 2011. Deliveries have started and will take place until the end of the year. All our employees work hard on making sure we do not experience further delays.

‘Regarding the 2009 and 2010 Bordeaux primeurs measures have been taken to improve quality of service since 2010. This will ensure that everything will get better.’

Initially 1855 was due to deliver 2008 Bordeaux en primeur in June 2011. It is now clear that a significant number of 1855's clients are still awaiting delivery of their 2008s with some starting legal action to obtain their orders. It is clear that Hyon's word is as worthless as 1855's junk bonds.

The RVF article ought to be lethal for 1855. Unfortunately RVF's circulation may not be sufficiently large, especially as a significant number of their customers like outside France. Also RVF damaged its credibility by the shamefully poor article about on-line retailers it published in its October 2011 edition.

See here a video of Jérôme Baudouin outlining 1855's failings.

'Management' and leading shareholders of 1855

Top billing for Billing's, Sydenham's butcher and fishmonger

2012-01-14T00:23:00.019Z

Billing's: butcher and fishmonger – 45 Sydenham Road, London SE26

The very welcome revival of butchers and, to a lesser extent, fishmongers in this part of South London continues to gather pace. The latest arrival is the very good Billing's in Sydenham's main street – aptly named Sydenham Road in SE26. The fish section opened first in the latter part of 2010 with the butchery section last year, so now Billing's has been fully opened for a little over six months and I have been using them for two or three months and have been very pleased with the quality of their produce and the helpful and friendly service.

During the 1990s good butchers and fishmongers in this part of London became an extinct species. There used to be a very good and popular butcher in Kirkdale – Miles & Son. Sadly they disappeared overnight – perhaps they went bust? Absurdly for one of the world's leading capital cities it became necessary to travel five or six miles either to Hesters (now closed) near Vauxhall Bridge or to Portwine (Covent Garden but now also closed). For some reason I was never aware of the nearby and highly regarded K & J Libretto & Daughters in Wood Vale, which is only a 10-15 minute walk away.

Billings sign

Things got better at the end of the 1990s and beginning of the new millenium with the opening up of Borough market but that has now become more and more crowded and expensive, so it is good to see high quality local butchers coming back here. William Rose in Lordship Lane started the renaissance in 2005 when they moved from Vauxhall. Although it is very popular with queues outside the door from early on a Saturday morning this has never been a favourite of mine, partly because they don't accept credit or debit cards which is a real pain these days. I've always been much happier with the nearby fishmonger – the card-accepting Moxon's, whose East Dulwich branch is just across the road.

More recently Geoff Sargeant opened further up Lordship Lane (348) near The Plough and the Dulwich Library. His beef was particularly good but again, like William Rose, no credit or debit cards, nor was he very welcoming, although his assistant was but he has now moved to Billing's, who do take cards! With a couple of days notice they are very happy to order anything you want – we had a couple of fine hares at the beginning of December. Enjoyed a very good plump pheasant earlier this week and a delicious sea bass and some raw prawns for grilling last night.

Billing's opening hours: Monday to Saturday inclusive

So much more enjoyable buying from someone who knows what they are selling, rather than from a supermarket, and quality for quality it is no more expensive. Indeed their free-range eggs are considerably cheaper. Also it's brilliant to be able to buy fish and meat at the same time.

It looks like the apostrophe in Billings/Billing's is optional. Billing's is used on their website but on the signs outside the shop there isn't an apostrophe. Take your choice!

Billing's

45 Sydenham Road

SE26 5EX

Email: sales@shopbillings.co.uk

Phone: 020-8659 2781

Billing's shopfront

Pancho Campo MW and the Spanish Consul

2012-01-13T16:06:00.003Z

Statement issued by the Spanish Consul in Abu Dhabi: 26th August 2009

Statement issued in both Spanish and Arabic (at the end of this post) on 26th August 2009 by the Spanish consul in Abu Dhabi:

A quien pueda concernir,

D. Vicente Cacha López de la Calzada, Encargado de los Asuntos Consulares de la Embajada de España en Abu Dhabi, por medio del presente escrito y de acuerdo con los antecedents que obran en nuestro archivo certifica que D. Francisco Armando Campo Carrasco solicitó la baja en la fecha de enero de 2002 derivada de su voluntad de trasladar su residencia a España.

De igual y por el mismo motive, nos solicitó la baja consular de su hija, Andreah Campo Butler y un visado para su mujer, Da Melissa Butler, para poder tener acceso al Espacio Schengen.

De igual forma, se deja constancia de que el Sr Francisco Armando Campo Carrasco era titular legitimo de un pasaporte español expedio el dia 27 de febrero de 2002 y válido hasta el 6 de junio de 2008.

En Abu Dhabi, a 26 de agosto de 2009

Vicente Cacho López de la Calzada

Segunda Jefutura/Cónsul

Embajada de España en Abu Dhabi

I’m very grateful to Harold Heckle, journalist based in Madrid and a fluent Spanish speaker, for this English translation:

To whom it may concern,

Vicente Cacho López de la Calzada, Chargé d'Affairs of Consular Matters at the Embassy of Spain in Abu Dhabi, certifies that according to details found in our archives Francisco Armando Campo Carrasco requested to be signed out at this Consulate on January 2002 based on his willingness to transfer his residence to Spain.

Similarly and for the same reason, he requested his daughter, Andreah Butler Campo, be signed out, and also sought a visa for his wife, Melissa Butler, so she may gain access to the Schengen Area.

Similarly, it is stated that Mr. Francisco Armando Carrasco Campo was the rightful holder of a Spanish passport issued on February 27, 2002 and valid until June 6, 2008.

Abu Dhabi 26th August 2009

Vicente Cacho López de la Calzada

Segunda Jefutura/Cónsul

Embajada de España en Abu Dhabi

Harold’s comments

This document is bizarre. It's really an unusual and strange document, and the reasons for requesting it must have sounded equally off the wall. Basically it says there is evidence in the files that Campo went to the Consulate and asked to be signed out.

Most people don't bother telling Consular offices to sign them in or out. For example, the British Consulate here knows me and about me, but I have never signed in, nor would I go there to tell them to sign me out when leaving the country. I've never done that in any of the five countries I've lived and worked in. It also says he was issued a passport after he was "signed out" and that the passport had an unusually limited lifespan. I think most passports issued under EU rules are valid for 10 years exactly, albeit they can have extensions if your previous passport still has time left on it at the time of requesting a new one. The principal reason for seeking a new passport with time still owing on a previous one is that you are required by most countries issuing visas to have a minimum of six months lifespan left on your passport before they issue you with a visa. I had to go through that rigmarole to get a visa to Uzbekistan, for example.

But apart from being signed out even before he has a Spanish passport, it is clear here that there is no forwarding address mentioned. All there is, is a willingness to go to Spain. Probably more than a willingness, more like an eagerness...

I can only imagine a very legalistic and complex reason being given when seeking the Consulate to issue this kind of statement.

Campo’s explanation to speakers at WineFuture Rioja09 sent September 1st 2009:

‘Before leaving, we informed the Spanish Embassy that we were moving back to Spain in case I was needed to be contacted. ‘

Melisasa Butler to Charlie Hamilton in the ‘Spanish promoter's arrest sought’ article –

The National Charlie Hamilton Sep 20, 2009

http://www.thenational.ae/news/uae-news/spanish-promoters-arrest-sought

"We left Dubai in February 2003 with a valid passport and informed the authorities we were leaving."

Comment and speculation

It is as Harold says a rather curious document and the dates are interesting. It says that Pancho Campo went to the Spanish Embassy in Abu Dhabi in January 2002 and told them he was considering moving to Spain. Campo wasn’t smuggled out of Dubai until about a year later.

Vicente Cacho López de la Calzada issued this statement on 26th August 2009 shortly before the news of Campo’s appearance on the Interpol list broke. The story by Adam Lechmere and myself was published on decanter.com on 4th September 2009, although I emailed questions to Campo on 31st August 2009.

What we don’t know is when Jackie Wartanian filed her complaint against Campo. Hamilton says that according to court papers Campo was charged on 5th June 2002 with breach of trust in relation to the around $600,000 he stole from the company.

If Hamilton is correct that the dispute arose over ‘a CSM-organised concert that year in Dubai by the Spanish singer Enrique Iglesias’, then Iglesias must have played in Dubai in early 2002. There was certainly an Inglesias concert there that year as the concert can be downloaded but I have yet to find the date it was held. His previous appearance in Dubai was on 1st October 2000.

Was Campo already preparing an ‘alias’ ("court case was a complete surprise to me!") for his flight from Dubai or did he indicate to the Embassy that he was considering moving to Spain in the context of wanting a visa for his wife?

The statement in Arabic

Vincent Pousson, who broke the story about the Murcian payments, now has a blog and his second post covers Campo being nominated as one of Verema's people of the year.

Epeigné-les-Bois: Voeux du Maire 2012 on Saturday 7th January

2012-01-13T08:25:00.001Z

Michel Mergot, maire of Epeigné, @ the Cérémonie des Voeux 2011

Very brief report in La Nouvelle Republique of this year's event:

'Lors de la cérémonie des vœux du maire, la commission environnement, maisons fleuries, sentiers pédestres a remis les prix aux lauréats du concours.

Maisons de bourg : 1. Marie-Claude et Jacques Ancelin, 2. Madeleine et Maurice Coquain.
Maisons de campagne : 1. Joséphine et Pierre Brunet, 2. Odette Ferrand.
Parcs fleuris : Nicole Caplain-Mory et Élisabeth Cacheur, toutes deux première ex aequo.'

2011 winners of the garden competition

Also a more lengthy and detailed report here in La NR on Luzillé's Cérémonie des Voeux held the following day.

Part of the centre of Luzillé

Dog manning a stand at a Luzillé fête: June 2009

1855 (1855.com): towards the perfect zero (part 4)

2012-01-12T22:19:00.002Z

Cusumano Benuara

Sad tale of how 1855 let down a now ex-customer over a Christmas present. They ordered three magnums of 2009 Cusumano Benuara from Sicily. Sadly the wine was not delivered although promised within 10 days on the 1855 site. Two emails ignored. The delivery might have been slow but 1855 trousered the client's money quickly enough!

"Nous avons commandé 3 Cusumano Benuara - magnum 2009 le 06/12/11 pour nos cadeaux de noël, fort du fait que sur le site il est noté que l'expédition se faisait dans les 10 jours. Nous avons tenté de les joindre de nombreuses fois, chaque fois messagerie. Nous leur avons envoyé deux emails qui sont eux aussi resté sans réponse. Par contre, le paiement a été encaissé tout de suite. De là à penser que ce sont des escrocs, il n'y a qu'un pas et pas très grand....."

Ce commentaire a été posté par noiry on Hervé Lalau Chroniques Vineuses.

This latest story suggests that Emeric Sauty de Chalon and Fabien Hyon may have greater ambitions regarding the 'perfect zero' than we thought. Not just content with royally pissing off their Bordeaux en primeur customers, they are doing the same to customers ordering wine that should be in stock. Their aim for 2012 may be to end up with no customers at all. I'm sure that there are many amongst the myriad of the 'friends' of 1855's who would be delighted to assist de Chalon and Hyon to achieve their ambition.

'Management' and leading shareholder of 1855