Tuesday, 30 September 2014
Catherine Roussel rallying the pickers for nearly the last time
Didier Barouillet down in the cellar
2014 is the last vintage for Catherine Roussel and Didier Barouillet at the Clos Roche Blanche (AC Touraine@Mareuil-sur-Cher). Retirement beckons for them. Over the past few years some of their vineyards have been sold off, in particular to Noëlla Morantin. The remaining vineyards, including a small parcel of Côt (Malbec is a synomym) where the vines are celebrating their 120th birthday this year, will be split between Laurent Saillard and Julien. Laurent and Julien will each be making their own wines.
Picking Sauvignon Blanc on a misty late September morning
Another small crop of Sauvignon Blanc in 2014: 15-20 hl/ha
Julien, who will be taking over some of the
remaining Clos Roche Blanche vines
Laurent Saillard@Clos Roche Blanche 2011 harvest
Didier in the cellar pouring a sample of
2014 Sauvignon Blanc coming in at an average 13.3%,
5.4 acidity and 3.28 acidity
Quality is good but quantity is again low
Monday, 29 September 2014
Fred and his growing family of amphores
including the two newest acquisitions just to his right
On Thursday afternoon, after we left the Luneau family, we dropped in on neighbouring Frédéric Niger Van Herck @Domaine des Amphores (autrefois Domaine de l'Ecu). Like the Luneaus, Fred was very happy with the 2014 vintage. After two weeks of harvesting he had finished the whites yesterday afternoon (Wednesday 23rd September). The yield has averaged 40 hl/ha with potential alcohols in the Melon of up to 12.5% at the end – with an average of 12% and 5.5 acidity. The Chardonnay (13.5% – 5.5 acidity) and the Pinot Noir has also been picked. Now Fred is waiting for the Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon to ripen.
As elsewhere in the Loire a warm dry September has transformed prospects after a wet and cool August. Around Friday 19th Fred was worried by a very dark sky but the storm fortunately passed them by. Elsewhere in the Loire hail storms at this time caused heart-breaking late damage to some very unfortunate producers like Corinne Laurent in Saint-Pourçain.
As well as tasting some of the fermenting 2014s, I also tasted the interestingly rustic 2013 Egiodola. This variety was originally developed in France's South West but Fred has a parcel close to the winery.
Reaching for 2014 Chardonnay – seven days of maceration
(above and below)
2014 Chardonnay – Fred amphoric!
Sunday, 28 September 2014
Restaurant Agnès Sorel@Genillé
One of our favourite local restaurants, the Agnès Sorel in Genillé, closed its doors about a fortnight ago. The food was extremely good and very good value for the quality, while the wine list, although short, was carefully chosen with a good selection of Loire wines. We will certainly miss it and Nicolas and Estelle Petit, who ran it.
I guess the closure of the Agnès Sorel underlines the difficulty of running a quality restaurant in a backwater like Genillé. Whether anyone will ever take over remains to be seen or is this the end of a restaurant that has been in Genillé as long as we have been in Epeigné – now more than 27 years?
The menu holder now empty
Through the reflection you just see the empty restaurant
with the tables and fittings gone
Saturday, 27 September 2014
Marie Chartier (Domaine Pierre Luneau-Papin) demonstrating
a return to an age-old tradition to analyse
the newly born 2014 Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine
It is an immutable law of nature that there comes a time when even the most cutting edge, starry movement slows and is overtaken by something new. Last Thursday we had the good fortune to discover that this may well now be underway in Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine. There is now a palpable sense that biodynamics is beginning to appear jolly fatigué!
Pierre-Marie Luneau – listening to his nascent 2014 Muscadet
Eco-Luneau is a return to hallowed traditions and values, including one long forgotten aspect of wine – its sound.
Trail-blazer Pierre-Marie Luneau (Domaine Pierre Luneau-Papin) explains: "We have forgotten how to listen to wine. Of course, the sight, aroma and taste are very important but we must never forget the sound of wine – the fourth sense. Unfortunately all the current wine notation systems, including of course the 100-point scale, concentrate exclusively on the three senses ignoring sound so only assess a part of a wine's qualities."
Pierre Clavel, Domaine Clavel in the Languedoc
(Millésime Bio, Montpellier January 2012)
Pierre-Marie acknowledges the pioneering and inspirational work carried out by Pierre Clavel into the audiology of wine over the past few years.
The Luneau family with their promising 2014 Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine:
Pierre-Marie, Marie, Monique et Pierre
(above and below)
Marie with the finely calibrated divining stick
Monique Luneau with a stereo of 2014 Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine
there will be some exciting new flavours
emerging from the Pays Nantais this year